Santo Antão Island - Roteiro
Making the connection by boat from Mindelo one docks at Porto Novo, previously Carvoeiro, the seat of the municipality since 1895. Although it is situated on the least inhabited part of the island, the sea port of Porto Novo has developed considerably over the years. It is developing dynamically, more so than the urban conglomerates of the north, which have less space to expand. There are plans for a nearby airport and the town now boasts a large, good quality hotel.
The southern part of Santo Antão, dry and hilly, is where considerable outcrops of puzolanas can be seen, with whitened streaks, which provide the raw material for the recently installed cement industry. However, there are hidden charms. All you have to do is follow the road from Porto Novo to Ribeira das Patas, via Lajedos, (an agricultural area with an interesting pilot scheme for a self‑sustained tourist village). One then arrives at the picturesque Alto Mira, overlooking the valley which leads to Tarrafal. A little to the north, on the west coast of the island, the beautiful township of Monte Trigo can be found, from where the highest peak on the island, Topo de Coroa, can be seen, and which is the title of a song by one of the most outstanding current musicians of Cape Verde: Bau.
To the east of Porto Novo is the Escorralete beach, where one of the annual festivals of Cape Verde is held. From here the coast road follows on to Janela. Here, for the first time in Cape Verde, there are tunnels which cut through the mountain, shortening the distance and travelling time between these two towns by half an hour.
But it is not the beach that the traveller looks out for most in Santo Antão; travelling north, one arrives in an enchanting region where the landscape and the mild climate is relaxing. One can marvel at the capacity of humankind to find ways to cross hostile terrain, which seem at first to be insurmountable; a road sculptured metre by metre through uneven territory leads to a high arid region where pine and eucalyptus trees and cool thick mists can be found.
In just a few kilometers one can travel through beautiful landscapes, from desert to mountain. This is one of the highest regions in Cape Verde and the climate encourages activities such as enjoyable and peaceful walks.
These are unforgettable moments. One can stop at Cova, a crater transformed into green fields and nearer to Pico da Cruz one finds Paúl, in the north. Descending the valley of the same name, one passes by Chã de Manuel dos Santos, meeting the parallel road, crossing ever more crops between streams and waterfalls. Almost six hours of walking will confirm that Cape Verde has truly tropical niches.
Continuing along the road to the north, one begins to descend slowly to the valley where Ribeira Grande is situated. There is a famous narrow piece of road which plunges abruptly between two cliffs, to the east up to the bed of Ribeira da Torre, and to the west the bed of Ribeira Grande, the first seat of the municipality of Santo Antão, dating from 1732. Arriving here, the visitor should visit both points of interest.
To the south‑east, following the coast, one arrives at Vale de Paúl, the most important agricultural area. The vegetation is thick, and covered with papaya, mango and breadfruit trees, interspersed with wide open spaces for maize, sugar‑cane, beans, cassava, yams and bananas, and other agricultural produce.
The imposing mountains seem to watch over the valley below. The traveller can take advantage of the tranquility of the leisure park of Passagem, where the swimming pool is the main point of interest, when it is open.
After exploring the Paul Valley, it is time to return to the coast and proceed from Santo António das Pombas to Janela, returning to Ribeira Grande, from which, one can continue north‑east to arrive at Ponta de Sol, which used to be called Maria Pia. This has been the seat of the municipality since 1885, and there is an unused aerodrome built on land reclaimed from the sea.
The town is quiet, and it is pleasant to wander freely through it. The central square is attractive, well kept, and noted for its beautiful buildings such as the church, the town hall, the hospital and the post office.
The religious festivities mark the year, such as S. João Baptista in Porto Novo, on June 24th, or Nossa Senhora do Livramento, on September 24th. It is always pleasant to observe the religious beliefs of the inhabitants when they parade in the streets, following hundred‑year‑old traditions, in which faith and customs mingle, giving continuation to genuine culture.
From Ponta do Sol, a short detour to Fontaínhas, going inland, is simultaneously an adventure and a pleasure. Perched on the side of the valley like a crib, this village is reached by a narrow winding road cut into the mountain face. There is a steep green gorge which takes ones breath away, where herons, ravens and pigeons can be watched in their own habitat.
From Fontainhas and going past Formiguinhas on the way to Cruzinha da Garça, it is also possible to reach Chã de Igreja. Here starts one of the most beautiful walks in Santo Antão, which goes along the shore on the cliff top over the sea stretching out in the distance, seeming to rise over the horizon, while on the other side the majestic mountain seems quite close and friendly.
One cannot leave Santo Antão without finding out about the grogue production, local ‘firewater’ made from sugar cane in the traditional method. For this reason, there is nothing better than going to Ribeira Grande via Boca de Coruja, going up the Boca de Ambas as Ribeiras to the mountain, and ending up at the enormous amphitheatre of Ribeira da Garça. This is another grandiose patterned landscape of terraces where sugar cane is carefully cultivated, to be transformed into the precious liquid in several warehouses, some mechanised but some still powered by oxen or mules. These dot the valley, and give off a typically musty smell at harvest time.
With the sea always close by, it is delightful to taste a fish soup before leaving. Here it is more like a fish stew, due to the variety of vegetables which accompany the large fish slices.
The excellent fruit of the island, from bananas to papaya, is delicious eaten fresh, but can also be made into chutneys or pickles to accompany an appetising goat cheese.
Of course, grogue, or any other of the several liqueurs that Santo Antão produces, makes an appropriate finale to a local meal…
Making the connection by boat from Mindelo one docks at Porto Novo, previously Carvoeiro, the seat of the municipality since 1895. Although it is situated on the least inhabited part of the island, the sea port of Porto Novo has developed considerably over the years. It is developing dynamically, more so than the urban conglomerates of the north, which have less space to expand. There are plans for a nearby airport and the town now boasts a large, good quality hotel.
The southern part of Santo Antão, dry and hilly, is where considerable outcrops of puzolanas can be seen, with whitened streaks, which provide the raw material for the recently installed cement industry. However, there are hidden charms. All you have to do is follow the road from Porto Novo to Ribeira das Patas, via Lajedos, (an agricultural area with an interesting pilot scheme for a self‑sustained tourist village). One then arrives at the picturesque Alto Mira, overlooking the valley which leads to Tarrafal. A little to the north, on the west coast of the island, the beautiful township of Monte Trigo can be found, from where the highest peak on the island, Topo de Coroa, can be seen, and which is the title of a song by one of the most outstanding current musicians of Cape Verde: Bau.
To the east of Porto Novo is the Escorralete beach, where one of the annual festivals of Cape Verde is held. From here the coast road follows on to Janela. Here, for the first time in Cape Verde, there are tunnels which cut through the mountain, shortening the distance and travelling time between these two towns by half an hour.
But it is not the beach that the traveller looks out for most in Santo Antão; travelling north, one arrives in an enchanting region where the landscape and the mild climate is relaxing. One can marvel at the capacity of humankind to find ways to cross hostile terrain, which seem at first to be insurmountable; a road sculptured metre by metre through uneven territory leads to a high arid region where pine and eucalyptus trees and cool thick mists can be found.
In just a few kilometers one can travel through beautiful landscapes, from desert to mountain. This is one of the highest regions in Cape Verde and the climate encourages activities such as enjoyable and peaceful walks.
These are unforgettable moments. One can stop at Cova, a crater transformed into green fields and nearer to Pico da Cruz one finds Paúl, in the north. Descending the valley of the same name, one passes by Chã de Manuel dos Santos, meeting the parallel road, crossing ever more crops between streams and waterfalls. Almost six hours of walking will confirm that Cape Verde has truly tropical niches.
Continuing along the road to the north, one begins to descend slowly to the valley where Ribeira Grande is situated. There is a famous narrow piece of road which plunges abruptly between two cliffs, to the east up to the bed of Ribeira da Torre, and to the west the bed of Ribeira Grande, the first seat of the municipality of Santo Antão, dating from 1732. Arriving here, the visitor should visit both points of interest.
To the south‑east, following the coast, one arrives at Vale de Paúl, the most important agricultural area. The vegetation is thick, and covered with papaya, mango and breadfruit trees, interspersed with wide open spaces for maize, sugar‑cane, beans, cassava, yams and bananas, and other agricultural produce.
The imposing mountains seem to watch over the valley below. The traveller can take advantage of the tranquility of the leisure park of Passagem, where the swimming pool is the main point of interest, when it is open.
After exploring the Paul Valley, it is time to return to the coast and proceed from Santo António das Pombas to Janela, returning to Ribeira Grande, from which, one can continue north‑east to arrive at Ponta de Sol, which used to be called Maria Pia. This has been the seat of the municipality since 1885, and there is an unused aerodrome built on land reclaimed from the sea.
The town is quiet, and it is pleasant to wander freely through it. The central square is attractive, well kept, and noted for its beautiful buildings such as the church, the town hall, the hospital and the post office.
The religious festivities mark the year, such as S. João Baptista in Porto Novo, on June 24th, or Nossa Senhora do Livramento, on September 24th. It is always pleasant to observe the religious beliefs of the inhabitants when they parade in the streets, following hundred‑year‑old traditions, in which faith and customs mingle, giving continuation to genuine culture.
From Ponta do Sol, a short detour to Fontaínhas, going inland, is simultaneously an adventure and a pleasure. Perched on the side of the valley like a crib, this village is reached by a narrow winding road cut into the mountain face. There is a steep green gorge which takes ones breath away, where herons, ravens and pigeons can be watched in their own habitat.
From Fontainhas and going past Formiguinhas on the way to Cruzinha da Garça, it is also possible to reach Chã de Igreja. Here starts one of the most beautiful walks in Santo Antão, which goes along the shore on the cliff top over the sea stretching out in the distance, seeming to rise over the horizon, while on the other side the majestic mountain seems quite close and friendly.
One cannot leave Santo Antão without finding out about the grogue production, local ‘firewater’ made from sugar cane in the traditional method. For this reason, there is nothing better than going to Ribeira Grande via Boca de Coruja, going up the Boca de Ambas as Ribeiras to the mountain, and ending up at the enormous amphitheatre of Ribeira da Garça. This is another grandiose patterned landscape of terraces where sugar cane is carefully cultivated, to be transformed into the precious liquid in several warehouses, some mechanised but some still powered by oxen or mules. These dot the valley, and give off a typically musty smell at harvest time.
With the sea always close by, it is delightful to taste a fish soup before leaving. Here it is more like a fish stew, due to the variety of vegetables which accompany the large fish slices.
The excellent fruit of the island, from bananas to papaya, is delicious eaten fresh, but can also be made into chutneys or pickles to accompany an appetising goat cheese.
Of course, grogue, or any other of the several liqueurs that Santo Antão produces, makes an appropriate finale to a local meal…
